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Circa at Sandridge Barton

Devon, Stoke Gabriel - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

The Sandridge Barton wine estate (Sharpham Vineyards, as was) has moved to the opposite side of the river Dart, and acquired a distinctive lunchtime restaurant into the bargain. Circa is housed in the old stone-built milking parlour, reached via a crunchy gravel walk, the interior done out in weathered planking and light wood, with one end wall dominated by a mural of a group of cellists entertaining a bemused huddle of sheep. It could be the trigger for a picture-caption competition. The set-up is run with suave command by a young team who exude the kind of omniscience about the menu details that inspires confidence. The cooking is modern British eco-cuisine, all conscientious localism and careful waste management – so any leftover wine, spent coffee or sundry peelings and leavings may well find their way into your lunch. A small-plates carte is condensed at each service into a good-value menu du jour, comprising bread, an appetiser and three courses. Our visit deep into a ...

The Sandridge Barton wine estate (Sharpham Vineyards, as was) has moved to the opposite side of the river Dart, and acquired a distinctive lunchtime restaurant into the bargain. Circa is housed in the old stone-built milking parlour, reached via a crunchy gravel walk, the interior done out in weathered planking and light wood, with one end wall dominated by a mural of a group of cellists entertaining a bemused huddle of sheep. It could be the trigger for a picture-caption competition. The set-up is run with suave command by a young team who exude the kind of omniscience about the menu details that inspires confidence. The cooking is modern British eco-cuisine, all conscientious localism and careful waste management – so any leftover wine, spent coffee or sundry peelings and leavings may well find their way into your lunch. A small-plates carte is condensed at each service into a good-value menu du jour, comprising bread, an appetiser and three courses. Our visit deep into a washout spring restored our hopes that the fugitive sunshine might return. The oiled focaccia with mild aïoli made for slippery fingers, and was accompanied by a plate of mixed fermented and pickled veg, including charred hispi and diced rhubarb. Wild garlic dumplings with koji-laced potato foam and a single spear of beautiful asparagus provided a gentle but delicious transition to a piece of sea bass, its skin crisped and puffed, with creamily flavourful Cornish new potatoes and a section of barbecue-blackened leek. A joyous finale arrived in the form of a generous helping of Douglas spruce parfait, stuck with pine-nut brittle and white chocolate shards, helped along by verjus curd and gorse-flower Chantilly. Wines are entirely drawn from the estate (perhaps understandably), but the old-fashioned delicacy of many of the whites isn't much cop with the food. Try the Little Bee, a skin-contact Pinot Gris, more glowing-pink than oxidative orange, which has sufficient tannic heft and body, as well as delightfully complex berry fruit (£8.70 a glass).

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VENUE DETAILS

Lower Well Farm, Waddeton Road
Stoke Gabriel
Devon
TQ9 6RLGB

01803 732203

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Parking, Dog friendly

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