CLOSED

Circa at Sandridge Barton

Devon, Stoke Gabriel - Modern British - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Very Good (Closed)

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

*The Circa team have moved into their new home in Totnes. Watch for a new review coming soon*  The Sandridge Barton wine estate (Sharpham Vineyards, as was) has moved to the opposite side of the river Dart, and acquired a distinctive lunchtime restaurant into the bargain. Circa is housed in the old stone-built milking parlour, reached via a crunchy gravel walk, the interior done out in weathered planking and light wood, with one end wall dominated by a mural of a group of cellists entertaining a bemused huddle of sheep. It could be the trigger for a picture-caption competition. The set-up is run with suave command by a young team who exude the kind of omniscience about the menu details that inspires confidence. The cooking is modern British eco-cuisine, all conscientious localism and careful waste management – so any leftover wine, spent coffee or sundry peelings and leavings may well find their way into your lunch. A small-plates carte is condensed at each service int...

*The Circa team have moved into their new home in Totnes. Watch for a new review coming soon* 

The Sandridge Barton wine estate (Sharpham Vineyards, as was) has moved to the opposite side of the river Dart, and acquired a distinctive lunchtime restaurant into the bargain. Circa is housed in the old stone-built milking parlour, reached via a crunchy gravel walk, the interior done out in weathered planking and light wood, with one end wall dominated by a mural of a group of cellists entertaining a bemused huddle of sheep. It could be the trigger for a picture-caption competition. The set-up is run with suave command by a young team who exude the kind of omniscience about the menu details that inspires confidence. The cooking is modern British eco-cuisine, all conscientious localism and careful waste management – so any leftover wine, spent coffee or sundry peelings and leavings may well find their way into your lunch. A small-plates carte is condensed at each service into a good-value menu du jour, comprising bread, an appetiser and three courses. Our visit deep into a washout spring restored our hopes that the fugitive sunshine might return. The oiled focaccia with mild aïoli made for slippery fingers, and was accompanied by a plate of mixed fermented and pickled veg, including charred hispi and diced rhubarb. Wild garlic dumplings with koji-laced potato foam and a single spear of beautiful asparagus provided a gentle but delicious transition to a piece of sea bass, its skin crisped and puffed, with creamily flavourful Cornish new potatoes and a section of barbecue-blackened leek. A joyous finale arrived in the form of a generous helping of Douglas spruce parfait, stuck with pine-nut brittle and white chocolate shards, helped along by verjus curd and gorse-flower Chantilly. Wines are entirely drawn from the estate (perhaps understandably), but the old-fashioned delicacy of many of the whites isn't much cop with the food. Try the Little Bee, a skin-contact Pinot Gris, more glowing-pink than oxidative orange, which has sufficient tannic heft and body, as well as delightfully complex berry fruit (£8.70 a glass).

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VENUE DETAILS

Lower Well Farm, Waddeton Road
Stoke Gabriel
Devon
TQ9 6RLGB

01803 732203

OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Parking, Dog friendly

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