Chishuru

London, Fitzrovia - West African - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Chishuru's long, narrow dining room looks like a lot of contemporary London restaurants – on the stark side of comfortable, with bare tables, wood floors and an open kitchen – but with a more intimate feel to the warm-toned, low-lit dining space in the basement. Here, Adejoké (Joké) Bakaré’s vibrant cooking draws on the rich culinary culture of Nigeria. The £50 four-course lunch menu is appealing, with praiseworthy dishes ranging from a deep-fried fermented rice cake topped with stir-fried chanterelles and chestnut mushroom purée, all strewn with grains of paradise (which provided a delectable spicy kick) to an ekoki corn cake topped with a little coconut cream and served with a piquant date and tamarind sauce and some candied chilli – starchy foods being the mainstay of Nigerian cuisine. Come for dinner and the five-course set menu is priced at £75, with the option to add extra dishes at a supplement. If ingredients are u...

Chishuru's long, narrow dining room looks like a lot of contemporary London restaurants – on the stark side of comfortable, with bare tables, wood floors and an open kitchen – but with a more intimate feel to the warm-toned, low-lit dining space in the basement. Here, Adejoké (Joké) Bakaré’s vibrant cooking draws on the rich culinary culture of Nigeria. The £50 four-course lunch menu is appealing, with praiseworthy dishes ranging from a deep-fried fermented rice cake topped with stir-fried chanterelles and chestnut mushroom purée, all strewn with grains of paradise (which provided a delectable spicy kick) to an ekoki corn cake topped with a little coconut cream and served with a piquant date and tamarind sauce and some candied chilli – starchy foods being the mainstay of Nigerian cuisine. Come for dinner and the five-course set menu is priced at £75, with the option to add extra dishes at a supplement. If ingredients are unfamiliar, unfortunately explanations aren't always the clearest, but the moi moi (steamed bean pudding) with lamb broth-cooked tomato, shrimp shito and salted egg sauce, was a highlight at our meal; we also enjoyed the kick from the little bowl of 'peppersoup', which came with pickled oyster mushroom, compressed beetroot, apple and uziza leaf. On the downside, delicious and tender slices of pink mutton cutlet with a coffee and yaji dressing, creamy peanut, udu and uziza sauce and sides of ginger fried rice, fried plantain and (too bitter) endive with preserved lemon, lacked cohesion. However, soursop ice cream and burnt marshmallow, served with a soft moringa biscuit, clementine, pomelo and grapefruit with Timur pepper made a refreshing finish. Service is charming and efficient, and there is a good selection of European wines by the bottle and glass, all chosen to go with the food.

Read full reviewSee less

Latest articles