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Caravel

London, Islington - Modern European - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

In times past, you’d be forgiven for getting a sinking feeling if someone proposed dinner on a boat – a magnet for bottomless booze cruises with dodgy canapés or overpriced formality. But, an invitation to Caravel? That’s more like it. Moored by Shepherdess Walk on the Regent’s Canal, the converted barge (look for a red one called ‘Poppy’) exudes understated elegance and good taste. The classy space, with a steep staircase entrance at one end and compact kitchen at the other, is owned and run by the Spiteri brothers (who also have the equally classy 'cocktail bar' barge, Bruno, moored nearby). The Spiteri name is writ large on London’s dining scene: chef Lorcan cut his teeth at Quo Vadis and Rochelle Canteen. With its thoughtful design details, from curtains and porthole windows to table lamps, candles and linen, it comes as no surprise that it's considered a romantic dining room. The brisk, modern bistro-style menu roams Europe and furt...

In times past, you’d be forgiven for getting a sinking feeling if someone proposed dinner on a boat – a magnet for bottomless booze cruises with dodgy canapés or overpriced formality. But, an invitation to Caravel? That’s more like it. Moored by Shepherdess Walk on the Regent’s Canal, the converted barge (look for a red one called ‘Poppy’) exudes understated elegance and good taste. The classy space, with a steep staircase entrance at one end and compact kitchen at the other, is owned and run by the Spiteri brothers (who also have the equally classy 'cocktail bar' barge, Bruno, moored nearby). The Spiteri name is writ large on London’s dining scene: chef Lorcan cut his teeth at Quo Vadis and Rochelle Canteen. With its thoughtful design details, from curtains and porthole windows to table lamps, candles and linen, it comes as no surprise that it's considered a romantic dining room. The brisk, modern bistro-style menu roams Europe and further afield, taking all manner of diversions while keeping things seasonal – and with a sense of fun at its heart. Both the carte and the weekday set lunch menu offer good value. Snacks and starters are crowd-pullers – from crisp potato rösti with a generous dollop of sour cream and Exmoor caviar to tender guinea fowl skewers with a vigorously verdant dragoncello (tarragon) salsa. When it comes to the main courses, the emphasis is on comfort – think roast hake with chips and curry sauce or confit duck leg with butter beans and rainbow chard. There’s always an elegant pasta dish, too, perhaps ribbons of handmade tagliatelle coated with rich cavolo nero and walnut sauce. We found the service oddly off-kilter and a few dishes clearly hadn’t been scrutinised on the pass (broken pastry on an otherwise flawless treacle tart, for example). Stellar, inventive cocktails front up the short drinks menu, and although there isn't a huge selection of wines by the glass, the list does have broad coverage.

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VENUE DETAILS

172 Shepherdess Walk
Islington
N1 7JLGB

020 7251 1155

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Credit card required

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