Café Ode

Shaldon, Devon

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Tim Bouget continues to expand the definition of what a modern-day eatery might be at his eco-friendly venue at Ness Cove, overlooking Lyme Bay near Teignmouth. If it takes some finding, persistence is rewarded by a menu of all-day contemporary café food, with electronic pre-ordering a neat way of ensuring a smooth passage through – whether you're at a table or sitting in a waiting car. In the summer months, the outdoor pizza oven is wood-fired up for terrace feasting. Otherwise, the world is your oyster for the likes of salmon and salt cod fritters with spicy dip, Rhug Estate pulled pork with chipotle mayo or Asian classics ranging from vegetable gado-gado to a rendang riff made with venison. Ale-battering and panko-crumbing lend satisfying texture to fish selections, while the sweet-treat brigade should be more than happy with lemon and honey posset, or a carbfest of ginger cake, brownie, blondie and flapjack. Drinking is usually interesting too: start with a Kilner jar of lavender lemonade.