Breddos
Clerkenwell, London
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With an offshoot in Oslo, a Breddos cookbook and various kiosk sites dotted around London, Nud Dudhia and Chris Whitney have come a long way since they started peddling tacos in a Hackney car park. Their makeshift shack is long gone, but some of the old street-food magic still inhabits this dinky but jumping joint in Clerkenwell: vinyl records spin on the decks, potted cactuses adorn the surfaces, and a big communal table brings people together. Creative global tacos are the headline acts, and all eyes are on the open kitchen as the chefs work minor miracles with 12cm corn tortillas, daily salsas and mould-breaking combos lifted from the world larder. To start, consider a tostada of sashimi-grade tuna with yellow beans, tomatillo and crispy shallots or tamarind-spiked chicken wings dressed with pomegranate, honey and sesame. After that, dip into the signature tacos – perhaps baja fish (cod tempura, pico de gallo and habanero chilli mayo) or Cacklebean egg, oyster mushroom, macadamia mole and salsa negra. Otherwise, a plateful of chargrilled Middlewhite pork neck with 'chile de árbol', salsa verde and roasted pineapple should suffice – especially with three warm tortillas, some Mexican green rice and black beans on the side. To drink, mezcal and tequila-based cocktails, micheladas and aguas frescas hit the spot.
