Brawn
Bethnal Green, London
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We could tell you about the mackerel and fresh gooseberries, or the salt brandade with egg and agretti, or the duck with beetroot and quince, but they’re unlikely to be on when you go; such is the ever-changing nature of Brawn’s super-seasonal menu. A steady presence, however, are puffy Parmesan fritters, excellent charcuterie, and the arrestingly simple Cantabrian anchovies with rosemary oil and lemon (all of which you’ll find at little sibling Sargasso in Margate, too). Brawn was as busy as ever at inspection; the chatter of young and no-longer-young east Londoners drowning out whatever vinyl was on the turntable. Records, loaves, wine posters, and empty double magnums from what must have been fun nights, provide decorative colour. The above-mentioned mackerel, gently grilled and carefully seasoned, was clever and understated – the brains to the brawn of tremendously good paccheri served with a powerful sauce of chicken liver and Marsala punched up with sage. Chef-patron Ed Wilson and new head chef Chris Trundle show a command of both registers, though we’ve observed a shift over time to a sharper, more visual style. To finish, the iciness of apricot granita with honey custard and shortbread is a good call on a hot day, though it doesn’t ‘eat’ well, the impeccable pastry lost in the snow. Brawn holds one of London’s finest low-intervention wine cellars. 'The list is strong on France and a pleasure to read,' notes one reader. Eccentric producers, up-and-coming regions, and textural skin-contact wines are par for the course. Non-drinkers are also well refreshed with hip sodas, kombuchas, even sparkling Gamay grape juice. Friendly staff remember a face; always nice.
