Brancusi
York, North Yorkshire
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It was good news when we heard that Florencia Clifford, Hugo Hildyard and chef James Gilroy from brunch spot Partisan had taken over the premises formerly occupied by Rattle Owl for their second opening on Micklegate. Named after the Romanian sculptor Constantin Brâncusi and open for brunch (Friday to Monday) and evenings (Thursday to Saturday), it features many well-tried Partisan classics (think Persian eggs, French toast, eggs Benedict) as well as a host of imaginative new ideas. In the evening, you might start with a Basque pintxo such as a cocktail stick threaded with anchovy, olive and pickled pepper – a salty, green, explosive snack that we paired with a glass of crisp Basque Txakolina. Then mix-and-match small and larger plates from a line-up that features both meat and fish – maybe chalk stream trout with crab hollandaise, or crisp pheasant goujons served with a creamy peppercorn sauce, or tender beef short ribs matched with celeriac rémoulade. But it’s vegetables that are at the heart of the menu, locally sourced from community food market Food Circle York, and inspired by a belief that food doesn’t have to be complicated to be good – try their lovely potato and Gruyère gratin, an artichoke heart tartine or squash with brown butter, sheep's curd and hazelnuts. For dessert there could be orange and cranberry sorbet or a chocolate pot with black-treacle ice cream, white chocolate and tofu ganache. Wines start at £26 a bottle.
