Bradleys
Swiss Cottage, London
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A diamond for the denizens of Swiss Cottage and beyond since 1992, Simon Bradley’s neighbourhood stalwart seems to have regained some of its old vim and vigour post-pandemic. Ticketholders heading for the nearby Hampstead Theatre take advantage of the fixed-price supper menu before curtain-up, while those who fancy something lighter and alfresco during the day can now plump for a glass of wine and a plate or two from the new Terrace menu (perhaps crispy duck salad with watercress and spiced plums or gnocchi with artichokes and wild garlic). Otherwise, it’s business as usual in the good-looking dining room with its pastel shades, big contemporary canvases and spotlights twinkling from the ceiling. Simon’s cooking has a noticeable French accent, but he buys British – procuring oysters and fish from Poole harbour, beef from Scotland and lamb from West Country farms. This translates into dishes such as crab and mullet ceviche with fennel and blood orange, fillet of turbot with asparagus and spinach or duck breast and croustillant of leg with hispi cabbage and turnips. There is also plenty of finesse on show when it comes to desserts such pear tatin or Seville orange and chocolate soufflé with chocolate ice cream. A commendable, wide-ranging wine list does its job, with a terrific choice by the glass and bottles from £25.
