Berenjak Soho
Soho, London
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'Thumbs up to the JKS restaurant group (some thirteen restaurants across London, including Hoppers,Gymkhana, Sabor, Bao and Kitchen Table) for supporting diverse cuisines to tease the palates of Londoners,’ cheered an inspector after visiting this snug, dimly lit Persian hangout. Apparently named after the handfuls of brightly coloured toasted rice eaten as a snack at Iranian funfairs, Berenjak channels the spirit of Tehran’s tiny hole-in-the-wall kebab joints –but with more style and class. Exposed brick, scuzzy plasterwork, stained glass windows and mosaic floors set the tone, while the open kitchen is dominated by a mangal barbecue and tandoor oven. Eat at the counter, bag a brown leather booth or head to one of the tables beneath a skylight at the back. The menu is divided into meze, kebabs and khoresht stews, so kick off with soft aubergine (cooked over charcoal) with tomato and Cacklebean eggs – perfect with a rectangular-shaped sangak (wholewheat flatbread baked on pebbles). To follow, perhaps order a ‘wonderfully tender’ kebab of minced lamb shoulder paired with fluffy, buttery saffron rice. Low prices and charming service ensure regular full houses, and it’s worth getting into the mood by flirting with one of the ‘sharbats’ (fruity cordials swizzled with green herbs and spiked with spirits).
