Artisan Rooms
Narberth, Pembrokeshire
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A beautiful building in a bucolic setting, The Grove not only does fine dining admirably but also caters for those seeking a simpler, more relaxed experience. Indeed, if you’re staying for a day or two, the Artisan Rooms offers a change of pace from the main event of dining in the flagship Fernery. Reached via a charming maze of public rooms (rugs, fireplaces, old settles, voluptuous sofas and plenty of Welsh arts and crafts), it is all about laid-back chic with an artisan, rustic edge in the form of gorgeous old pottery and patchwork finds. The menu offers something for everyone, from upmarket burgers to the more sophisticated prospect of nori-wrapped cod prettily served in an Asian broth with dainty vegetables and rice noodles. European ideas also show up well – as in venison tortellini with peppercorn sauce or a supersized, fall-apart tender duck leg with perfectly creamed potatoes, red cabbage and carrot. Desserts exhibit similar scope – you could plump for the hearty comforts of sticky toffee pudding and ice cream or a swankier, spheroid, chocolate-encased, gold-spangled chocolate gâteau with yoghurt ice cream. It’s all very easy-going and enjoyable. There’s also the pleasure of a sophisticated wine list, including many good options by the glass.
