Another Hand
Manchester , Greater Manchester
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In the shadow of an Odeon cinema complex and with a toilet (accessed by a code and perfectly pleasant) in the next-door car park, this is hardly Manchester's most glamorous location. But inside, this café by day, restaurant by night is an operation of confident, understated sophistication. An open galley kitchen dominates the room, looking out over diners settled in cushioned burnt-orange banquettes or seated on spindle-back chairs at light wood tables – or even perched on high stools at the deep pass itself. With just 25 covers indoors, it’s an intimate (but not overbearing) setting in which to enjoy Julian Pizer and Max Yorke's cooking – both of whom have shown form at Manchester institutions such as Hispi and Edinburgh Castle. Totally at odds with the urban vernacular outside, their menu sparkles with interest. At dinner, it reads (and eats) with the refinement of a tasting menu: Shetland scallop with white chiffons of salted turnip in a fragrant tom yum broth; sugar-cured venison with cocoa nib, kola nut, smoked yoghurt and blackberry. Happily it’s also a menu of small plates that you could skip through lightly or spend quite a lot of money on – the choice is yours. Superb service complements both types of occasion, warmly offering a personal, well-judged guide through the food and drink on offer. Despite the technical prowess woven through the menu, the highlight of an inspection meal was a plate of hispi cabbage – the charred, slumped wedge dressed in tangy buttermilk, crispy chicken skin and bright pickled onion. A dessert of warm rye chocolate with speculoos, toasted white chocolate and finished with shavings of frozen blood orange was another masterclass of texture, flavour and acidity in perfect harmony. Natural-wine detractors might find themselves pleasantly surprised by the easy-to-love line-up of 175ml pours but there’s also a snappy selection of excellent local beers on offer.
