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Annwn

Pembrokeshire, Narberth - Modern Welsh - Restaurant - ££££

Overall Rating: Exceptional

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Exceptional

In the spring of 2023, Annwn's chef-owner Matt Powell relocated to new premises in the centre of Narberth. The set-up may look freshly minted, but it's a place with a purpose, a blink-and-you-miss-it spot, squished between other high-street shops. And with its simple white walls, slate floor and minimally laid oak tables, it’s a welcome pop of urban cool for this market town. Indeed, the juxtaposition of theatre-style seating facing an open-plan kitchen gives an interesting insight into the ordered working of the solo chef – just don’t expect the rigmarole of fine dining. Instead, an air of fresh informality and genuine friendliness prevails. The multi-course tasting menu sings lustily of food that's been caught, cured, foraged, picked, pickled and preserved – all from the estuaries, forests and fields of Pembrokeshire. We loved the individuality, the localism, the backstories to the dishes – the sheer skill on display. There was a wistfulness to some of t...

In the spring of 2023, Annwn's chef-owner Matt Powell relocated to new premises in the centre of Narberth. The set-up may look freshly minted, but it's a place with a purpose, a blink-and-you-miss-it spot, squished between other high-street shops. And with its simple white walls, slate floor and minimally laid oak tables, it’s a welcome pop of urban cool for this market town. Indeed, the juxtaposition of theatre-style seating facing an open-plan kitchen gives an interesting insight into the ordered working of the solo chef – just don’t expect the rigmarole of fine dining. Instead, an air of fresh informality and genuine friendliness prevails. The multi-course tasting menu sings lustily of food that's been caught, cured, foraged, picked, pickled and preserved – all from the estuaries, forests and fields of Pembrokeshire. We loved the individuality, the localism, the backstories to the dishes – the sheer skill on display. There was a wistfulness to some of the ingredients, from the use of Welsh in some descriptions and the reference to an ancient and dying Welsh language to the revival of an almost lost Welsh grain used in the bread. Luxury is not necessarily defined by a flash of lobster (deliciously served with laver seaweed, shoreline plants and lobster dressing), but by garden-fresh produce whose flavours are allowed to shine. Carrots, picked from Matt's garden that afternoon, teamed with some saltier preserved slices, preserved blackcurrants and hogweed seeds (all lapped by a rich, buttery carrot sauce) proved to be a fabulous amalgamation of sweet and salty. Elsewhere, a play on wild garlic, 'preserved in its life cycle' (bud, flower, leaves, seeds) and presented like a botanical painting, was simply sensational. By contrast, there was a rusticity to shoulder of saltmarsh lamb braised in honey and beer (a traditional Welsh way); tender enough to be eaten with a spoon, it was offset by a sea buckthorn emulsification, sea radish and scurvy grass. And as a finale, a delicate gorse-flower custard served in an eggshell with birch-vinegar meringue and sweet cicely proved to be a studiously assembled masterpiece. On our visit, the wine list (entirely English and Welsh) provided just two by the glass: a Lyme Bay Chardonnay (£19), and a Beaujolais-style White Castle Regent from Monmouthshire (£18), which drank well with our meal.

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M Hewitt

15 February 2025

Nestled in the heart of Narberth, Pembrokeshire, Annwn offers a dining experience that seamlessly blends foraged ingredients with culinary artistry. Chef-owner Matt Powell has crafted a unique 10-course tasting menu that...
Nestled in the heart of Narberth, Pembrokeshire, Annwn offers a dining experience that seamlessly blends foraged ingredients with culinary artistry. Chef-owner Matt Powell has crafted a unique 10-course tasting menu that showcases the rich bounty of the local coast, forests, and fields. Each dish tells a story.

The food was a journey through the Welsh landscape, from the oyster foam, taking me to the Pembrokeshire coast, the venison dish made me feel as though I was sat in a remo...
Nestled in the heart of Narberth, Pembrokeshire, Annwn offers a dining experience that seamlessly blends foraged ingredients with culinary artistry. Chef-owner Matt Powell has crafted a unique 10-course tasting menu that showcases the rich bounty of the local coast, forests, and fields. Each dish tells a story.

The food was a journey through the Welsh landscape, from the oyster foam, taking me to the Pembrokeshire coast, the venison dish made me feel as though I was sat in a remote woodland, the Boulston honey and cheese curd had me sitting in a summer meadow surrounded by summer flowers.

Matt and Naomi were just wonderful hosts, with such attention to detail, and it’s four hours of a truly magical experience for those in the room.

Ten courses of exquisite food that I will never forget, it felt as though Matt was cooking just for us. We have eaten in many Michelin-starred locations, and this one should definitely be on the list. Although I would love to keep this one to ourselves, this culinary experience needs to be shared!

Annwn is a testament to the culinary potential of locally sourced and foraged ingredients, making it a must-visit for gastronomes seeking an exceptional experience in Wales.
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VENUE DETAILS

1 Market Square
Narberth
Pembrokeshire
SA67 7AUGB

07308 313107

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