Acme Fire Cult

Dalston, London

CONTINUE READING

Already a member? Log in here

Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.

* indicates required

The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days

Try for free

 

The inviting smell of burning embers and charring now mingles with the aromas of hops and freshly baked loaves in this foodie courtyard behind Dalston Junction. Those embers are from Acme Fire Cult – a low-budget, self-funded eatery devoted to fire-fuelled cooking. But this isn’t just another dude-food BBQ joint: here, vegetables are elevated to a starring role, with rare-breed meats and day-boat fish providing the support acts. There’s also much use of micro-seasonal ferments and by-products from the 40FT Brewery next door – Acme even makes its own version of Marmite from leftover yeast. The menu is a globe-straddling line-up of unorthodox but exciting modern dishes: grilled leeks, fresh from the embers, are paired with roasted pistachios and pistachio romesco, while the fermented pumpkin houmous with macadamia will have you ‘dipping curiously’ into its contents. As meat and fish are introduced, you might find chunks of grilled ox heart hidden among a salad of bitter leaves or Dorset crab piled on a slab of sourdough with salted cabbage, jalapeño verde and a rich sauce involving bone marrow and the crustacean's brown meat. For afters, you could be treated to the last of the summer strawberries with buttermilk cream. Acme is also fiercely eco-conscious (don’t be fazed by the compostable bamboo plates) and it has an unusual layout too, with more than half the tables outside under a canopy. To drink, mezcal margaritas fly out of the bar, 10 taps dispense brews from 40FT and the concise wine list is a knowledgeable, well-researched slate.