Anthony Demetre was a restaurateur ahead of his time when he opened Arbutus on Soho’s Frith Street in 2006. His venture, in partnership with Will Smith, was quickly the talk of the town and was pioneering in its democratisation of what had thus far been considered ‘fine dining’ food; beautiful, considered cooking without the tablecloths and steep prices, with wines served by the carafe to better explore an imaginative list. Not uncommon now, but a revelation 15 years ago. In the 2007 edition of The Good Food Guide, the restaurant was awarded ‘London Newcomer of the Year’.
In the years that followed Demetre went on to open Wild Honey in Mayfair in 2007, Les Deux Salons in 2010 and a second incarnation of Wild Honey, this time in St James’s, in 2019. Now comes news that he is harking back to more accesible fare with the opening of The Crossing pub in Barnes, alongside operator Christian Arden.
The site - formerly The Tree House - reopened late last year after a £450,000 refurbishment and the duo have pitched the place very much as a pub, with starters not straying beyond £13, and mains set between £12.50 and £24.
The kitchen is overseen by Demetre along with head chef Alessandro Carulli, both of whom have created a menu that ‘uses the very best British ingredients’ from suppliers including Daphne’s Lamb, Will the Fish in Dorset, HG Walter, La Latteria, Rye by the Water, and Natoora. On the menu? Mushroom and spring onion croquettes, slow-cooked Italian squash with grapes and parmesan, gnocchi with venison ragu, Dorset cod with baked leeks, and saffron risotto.
The wine list is extensive but not exhaustive and bottles start at £23. Arden said: ‘Having known Anthony since Sutherland’s days, it’s great to be working with him, and between us we have assembled a terrific young team who are delivering a fabulous relaxed atmosphere and wonderful, simple food. This location in Barnes is ideal, and I am thrilled to have this opportunity.’
First published in our sister publication CODE Hospitality
