Interviews

Pierre Koffmann on Sunday Roasts
Published 09 October 2024

We caught up with the legendary Pierre Koffmann to chat about Sunday Roasts.

What was the first British roast dinner you ever had like?

In the 1970s I used to go with lots of other chefs to The Cumberland Hotel, Marble Arch. They did a roast and you could eat as much as you wanted and with a good appetite it was cheap but it was really good.

What does your ideal roast dinner look like and where is your favourite place to go out for a roast?

Home is my favourite place for a roast, but L’Escargot is excellent, they serve a beautiful rib of beef. I also had a wonderful lunch at The Alma in Wandsworth recently too.

What are the key elements in selecting the perfect potato for a dish? Do you prefer certain varieties over others?

Potato perfection is a complex process. It must be the right potato, at the right time of year, stored properly, and then cooked properly. At Koffmann’s we pride ourselves on growing potatoes for purpose as not one variety suits all dishes.

Lots of chefs prefer certain varieties like pink firs or Jersey royals, what do you think about these varieties? Are there some lesser-known varieties of potato that are underrated?

There are thousands of potato varieties. Jerseys are my least favourite, but I like Corne de Gatte potatoes. I also really like a new potato variety, as grown by Phil Rogers’ at Pengelly Farms in Cornwall. I visited him earlier this year and he had a variety of new potatoes called Lady Christl, they taste best when they’ve just been lifted in May.

Potatoes feature in your most famous dish, "Pied de Cochon aux Pommes de Terre." What is your favourite potato dish to cook, or to eat?

I do love a buttery mash, but a boulangère cooked with lamb is pretty special.

What’s your secret to the perfect roast potato?

My wife Claire always cooks the roast potatoes at home. She does them exactly how we how we have prepared our Koffmann’s Roast Potatoes and I have to say they are always excellent.

Peel your potatoes and cut into uneven sizes, steam until the edges are breaking, fluff up and roast in your favourite fat until they are golden brown and crispy. Usually about 15 minutes before the end of cooking she crushes up the odd one, it gives delicious crispy scraps.