Kaji is a hugely ambitious move for Steven Smith, a chef whose globally inspired, flavour-first cooking is well-known to regular readers of the GFG from his long tenure at The Freemasons at Wiswell in Lancashire. It’s a complete change of direction, an astonishing jump from classic village pub to edgy city-centre restaurant: we were definitely not expecting a twilit, cavernous, dramatic restaurant full of fire, smoke, energy and sound. Or cooking best described as fine dining with a side of comfort eating. But we loved every aspect, from the centre stage seating at the flame-fuelled chef’s counter (normal tables are available), to the perfectly pitched soundtrack.
For a start it's effortlessly unfussy, which takes a lot of work to achieve when there’s a certain refinement and sophistication about the food. The menu is both crowd-pleasing (sticky chicken wings with katsu curry sauce), and designed to surprise – the cooking is broadly East Asian cohabiting with premium British produce. But it’s the embracing of various price points, differing appetites and (to some extent) tastes that is the genius of KAJI. Just come for sushi or share a Chateaubriand, order a selection of snacks and small plates or settle in for three courses, book the very good-value set lunch/early supper or celebrate with the attention-grabbing multi-course taster. At a time when restaurant closures are beginning to pile up, it’s good to see a viable business showing such flexibility.
Some highlights of our tasting menu: exquisite sashimi, nigiri and temaki (from authentic Tokyo Edomae sushi-trained chef Caio Costa); umami-drenched white miso and sake infused drunken rice with smoked and pickled mooli and a shaving of black truffle; a nugget of flame-grilled turbot atop a chunky langoustine and XO hollandaise; a crispy chilli milk bun with pickled jalapeño pepper, a fantastic upgrading of The Freemason’s legendary lamb fat brioche; the sommelier’s spot-on by the glass choices.
With little self-promotion, Steven Smith’s KAJI is already turning heads. There are plans to scale up – an entire basement is waiting to be utilised – so this dark, vibrant ground-floor space with its front bar, sounds, colourful wall screens and theatrical kitchen and could be merely the warm up-act. We want to go back. Expect a full review soon
WHERE 64 Bridge Street, Manchester, M3 3BN
FOLLOW @kajimcr
BOOK kajimcr.com
The Good Food Guide allows three to six months before anonymously inspecting a new restaurant. Look out for a full review coming soon.
