Wright Brothers Borough Market
Borough, London
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The Wright Brothers restaurant group, run by seafood merchants and brothers-in-law Ben Wright and Robin Hancock, celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2022 and this – their original site – remains hugely popular. Bordering the bustle of Borough Market, the lively 'Oyster & Porter House' is dominated by counter seating, with a fair few tables for larger groups and a welcome lack of ostentation. Kick things off with some oysters (naturally), push the boat out on a seafood platter or swerve the bivalves entirely: the rest of the menu puts the spotlight firmly on daily deliveries of fresh seafood from Britain’s coastal waters, and everything is handled impeccably. After crab croquettes or a robust, deeply savoury fish soup (complete with the customary croûtons, grated Comté and a rich, garlicky rouille), there are the mainstays – perhaps a signature fish pie (the epitome of comfort eating) or moules marinière with fries. Elsewhere, the daily specials board could promise skate wing with capers, beurre noisette and new potatoes, while other species such as whitebait, sardines, brill, bream and plaice are well timed and served with simple accompaniments – aïoli or salsa verde, perhaps. Round things off with a little chocolate pot, lemon posset, Neal’s Yard cheeses or a scoop of homemade ice cream. Craft beers, Wright Bros pilsner or oyster stout are winning libations, and the wine list majors on whites but with some interesting fish-friendly reds too. Do book: walk-ins are often turned away, even for an early weekday supper.
