Watson and Walpole
Framlingham, Suffolk
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Framlingham’s 'Castle on the Hill' may be the stuff of song these days (thanks Ed Sheeran) but this neighbourhood Italian, just a few steps down from that hill, deserves a hit serenade too. ‘Spot-on, absolutely delicious,’ noted one diner, applauding a Dover sole, precisely roasted to that moment when the flesh slips easily from bone. Its only accompanimemts were peas and spinach sott’olio, and a length of seared chard, because 'that's all a fish of such deliciousness needs'. Two sardines ask for nothing more than a spoonful of bright salsa verde, while butter-soft slices of beef carpaccio sit perfectly with a squiggle of classic Harry’s Bar dressing and shards of Parmesan. Watson and Walpole is a place to eat deliciously all’italiana, so come hungry. Begin with frittura of brown shrimps or burrata with crushed broad beans and peas, proceed to some spectacularly fine handmade pasta, a secondo of meat or fish, and a dolce dessert. Pasta-wise, pappardelle with a gentle lamb ragù clinging to the silky ribbons stands out, so too orecchiette filled with sweet, summery crab. You could be in a seaside Puglian trattoria or – in the case of the pappardelle – a hilltop Umbrian eatery. Chicken, simply grilled, comes with colourful zucchini and chilli-pepped salsa etrusca, while a generous pork chop with borlotti beans offers something much heartier. Less hungry? You're more than welcome to drop by for a bowl of 'pasta e via' or a pizza from the hard-working wood-fired oven. To finish, the tiramisu has been described as ‘probably the best either of us has ever eaten, light, creamy and with lots of booze’. Italy’s wines in all their beautiful diversity fill a compact and reasonably priced list, with a ‘jolly decent’ Garganega from Veneto opening the offer at £20. Head round the back of Watson & Walpole to find Beviamo, a cool, informal space that is continuing the restaurant’s Italian vibe by serving up pizza by the slice from the wood-fired oven and offering cocktails such as negroni, amalfitano (a mojito with limoncello) and espresso martini alongside wine and beer.
