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Vatavaran

London, Knightsbridge - Indian - Restaurant - £££

Upscale Indian in Knightsbridge

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

In an attempt to stem the tide of recent restaurant closures in this once fashionable street, Arrow Hospitality has replaced the short-lived Geode with Vatavaran (Sanskrit for ‘atmosphere’) and recruited top Indian chef Rohit Ghai from sibling Kutir in Chelsea to help turn its fortunes round. We sat under the atrium in the Orangery of this impressive four-storey townhouse – a relaxed space on the mezzanine, expensively clad with wood floors, chalky blue walls, soft blue-leather banquettes, marble-topped tables, colourful prints and an open kitchen. The speciality here is the cooking of the Himalayas, although the menu also includes familiar dishes such as aloo tikki or butter chicken. But the good news is that Rohit Ghai has made a successful ‘vibe shift’, ensuring that his kitchen team deliver beautiful-looking plates of food utilising top-quality produce enhanced by subtle spicing. Highlights on our visit included three plump pan-seared scallops served ...

In an attempt to stem the tide of recent restaurant closures in this once fashionable street, Arrow Hospitality has replaced the short-lived Geode with Vatavaran (Sanskrit for ‘atmosphere’) and recruited top Indian chef Rohit Ghai from sibling Kutir in Chelsea to help turn its fortunes round. We sat under the atrium in the Orangery of this impressive four-storey townhouse – a relaxed space on the mezzanine, expensively clad with wood floors, chalky blue walls, soft blue-leather banquettes, marble-topped tables, colourful prints and an open kitchen.

The speciality here is the cooking of the Himalayas, although the menu also includes familiar dishes such as aloo tikki or butter chicken. But the good news is that Rohit Ghai has made a successful ‘vibe shift’, ensuring that his kitchen team deliver beautiful-looking plates of food utilising top-quality produce enhanced by subtle spicing. Highlights on our visit included three plump pan-seared scallops served atop soft, pulpy aubergine alongside some chutney infused with pink salt. We were also impressed by a serving of Mangalore stone bass which arrived in a delicious coconut and tamarind curry, while tandoori lamb chops with black cumin and ginger showed the kitchen's skill in that department.

To round off proceedings, desserts such as pineapple and coconut jaggery or mango and passion-fruit sorbet should please anyone with a sweet tooth. Service is amicable, and the drinks list ranges from two-dozen cocktails and mocktails inspired by the Subcontinent to a globe-trotting wine selection with strong representations from France and Italy.

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VENUE DETAILS

14-15 Beauchamp Place
Knightsbridge
SW3 1NQGB

020 4618 3971

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Outdoor dining, Family friendly, Credit card required

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