Upstairs at Landrace
Bath, Somerset
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Upstairs at Landrace grew organically from the ground-floor bakery in central Bath, a place consecrated – among other things – to the production of peerless sourdough bread from stoneground grain. Morning loungers make way for booked lunchers, while the evening set ascend from a place where ovens are still cooling from the day's exertions. The menu is scribbled on the blackboard, with Parmesan fritters ('delightful crispy balls of rich cheesy goodness') available to nibble or scoff while you ponder. Small plates shout simplicity in the eloquent tones of speck with melt-in-the-mouth fat, or a bundle of palate-sharpening radishes with creamy goat's curd. Seasonal ingredients are used with creative refinement for main dishes such as Jersey Royal agnolotti with spinach, hazelnuts and wild garlic, while a rump of East Devon beef, its grassy fat cap echoed in salsa verde and chard, with a bittering note from artichoke, was the star of a spring visit. Baked desserts are clearly the way to go – peach and hazelnut tart with crème fraîche, perhaps. Bottles of Wilding Cider from Chew Magna are alternatives to the artisan Old World wine list, which boasts a few skin-contact oddities for the true devotee.
