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Updown

Kent, Betteshanger - Italian - Restaurant - ££

Country retreat with popular appeal

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

Hotels don’t come any more laid-back than this. Considered by many a ‘gorgeous place’ with its ‘magical garden’ used for drinks in fine weather, Ruth Leigh and Oliver Brown’s charmingly updated 17th-century farmhouse not far from Deal is popular for its delightful rural location and decor pitched agreeably somewhere between rusticity and an upper-crust restaurant with rooms. The dining room is separate from the main house, found across the lawn in a converted conservatory – unfussy, unpretentious and, we’re happy to report, now fully winterised. The kitchen offers a gently updated version of Italian-accented cooking which, for one mid-winter visitor, meant the richness of chicken liver pâté was beautifully matched by the sweet-sour caramelised notes of agrodolce onions, while a huge, shared T-bone steak (served with ‘immaculate’ béarnaise), was perfectly cooked ‘with just the right funk of a well-age...

Hotels don’t come any more laid-back than this. Considered by many a ‘gorgeous place’ with its ‘magical garden’ used for drinks in fine weather, Ruth Leigh and Oliver Brown’s charmingly updated 17th-century farmhouse not far from Deal is popular for its delightful rural location and decor pitched agreeably somewhere between rusticity and an upper-crust restaurant with rooms.

The dining room is separate from the main house, found across the lawn in a converted conservatory – unfussy, unpretentious and, we’re happy to report, now fully winterised. The kitchen offers a gently updated version of Italian-accented cooking which, for one mid-winter visitor, meant the richness of chicken liver pâté was beautifully matched by the sweet-sour caramelised notes of agrodolce onions, while a huge, shared T-bone steak (served with ‘immaculate’ béarnaise), was perfectly cooked ‘with just the right funk of a well-aged beast’.

Other well reported meals have produced turbot with white asparagus and a silky, buttery blood-orange sauce, roast chicken with morels, and a perfect bread and butter pudding (blowtorched crust, rich custard). Sunday roasts get the highest praise – ‘almost like home-cooked’ and come with ‘sharing dishes of beautiful vegetables and a jug of gravy’. The wine choices fully live up to the ethos of the cooking, strong on Italy but not exclusively so, opening with a Sicilian red and white by the glass, carafe or bottle. 

 

 

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VENUE DETAILS

Updown Road
Betteshanger
Kent
CT14 OEFGB

07842 244192

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required

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