Twenty Seven Harbour Street
Broadstairs, Kent
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A reworking of Wyatt & Jones, in that it has the same owners and the same location (under York Gate on the steep incline as Harbour Street runs down to the sea), but the newly minted Twenty Seven Harbour Street offers a short menu of small sharing plates cooked over fire. Little has changed inside – think chapel chairs and wooden tables, soothing dark colours, big windows with views to the sea – and the welcome remains as friendly for passing tourists as it is for the many loyal locals. Staff are efficient and, like the food, anything but dour. Bright colours, carefully matched textures and a global array of flavours characterise the likes of squid-ink rice with sobrasada, tempura monkfish, peas, aïoli and red chilli – one of the highlights of our meal. Vivid flavours and on-point cooking also typified a gently charred and carefully seasoned devilled red mullet, while chargrilled asparagus atop crab gribiche was clever and understated. A tender, flavoursome Kentish pork chop (served with aubergine, anchovy and rosemary butter) was simply delicious, too. We shared a luscious and satisfying final course – sourdough doughnuts covered in white, milk and dark chocolate with a sprinkling of pistachios. Dishes arrive as and when they are ready, so the table can fill up quickly – but let it be, because this is a place for relaxed, tasty, wine-bar grazing, especially when there is an enterprising spread of European and English wines by the glass. Breakfast is offered at weekends, and the wood-fired roasts on Sundays are highly recommended.
