The Whitehouse
Lochaline, Highlands & Islands
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It’s an isolated spot for a serious restaurant: on the edge of the Morvern peninsula, a 20-minute ferry crossing from the Isle of Mull, or a meandering 40-mile drive from Fort William through breathtaking landscapes of ancient moorland, tumbling rivers, woods and lochs. It’s both wild and beautiful. The unprepossessing, flat-faced and whitewashed building doesn’t show great promise, while the two small dining rooms are simply furnished with pine chairs and tables, with nothing to suggest that this is anything other than a regular café. Yet owners Chris and Agi Stanley Fotos are doing something rather special at this quiet spot. The Whitehouse had already made a name for itself under Mike Burgoyne, but Chris Stanley Fotos (a former head chef at the Airds Hotel) is well qualified to carry the baton. Indeed, the new owners have much the same philosophy as the previous regime, using the best of the local, foraged and seasonal produce, while maintaining a commitment to the local community with special events, takeaways and meal kits to cook at home. Whether you're eating from the brief lunchtime carte or the evening taster, the food is 'well worth the journey, wherever you are travelling from,' according to one visitor. Expect the likes of cold- and hot-smoked salmon, cured in Lochaline itself and served with spring onions, a crab crumpet and a garnish of cucumber, salmon roe and crème fraîche, followed by a textbook rendering of pork belly presented with braised cabbage, baby turnip and celeriac rösti, or a caramelised leek and onion risotto finished with roasted peppers and basil pesto – a dish packed with flavour. Desserts are similarly flawless, perhaps a walnut parfait with prune purée, sliced plums and pistachio cake or what the menu simply describes as ‘chocolate brownie’ – seriously underselling what arrives at the table: a deep, rich chocolate ganache with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream. The short but attractive wine list includes a lovely Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec.
