The White Oak
Cookham, Berkshire
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On weekday lunchtimes, local families and couples quickly populate this smart but relaxed country pub on the edge of Cookham, drawn by an enticing fixed-price deal that’s a bargain in this moneyed locality near the Thames. There’s much else to attract them too: a leafy garden with covered pods for inclement weather; a handsome bar with two real ales on tap; and a spacious dining area featuring plush banquettes and views of the garden. A display of covetable wine bottles (mostly French) indicates an oenophile influence; the pithy but varied list ranges from inexpensive vins de pays to heavyweights bought 'en primeur' by a local supplier. Equal care is taken with the food, whether on the aforementioned set menu or the seasonally attuned carte. To start, slices of treacle-cured trout are paired with little cubes of cucumber and apple, while mains could feature slow-cooked blade of beef accompanied by just-so frites, punchy truffle mayonnaise and admirable gravy – all beautfully presented. From the set menu, we also enjoyed a flavourful chicken terrine and toasted sourdough, followed by a generous chunk of hake with barbecued celeriac, creamed leeks and a tangy caper and dill emulsion. A side dish of new season's Jersey Royals added some springtime appeal. Desserts also maintained the standard, from a Guinness sticky toffee pudding (dark and flavourful, with a layer of crumble beneath the accompanying ice cream) to a coconut cake (served warm) with pineapple compote and coconut sorbet. Friendly, on-the-ball service completes the pretty picture.
