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The Troublesome Lodger

Buckinghamshire, Marlow - French - Restaurant - ££££

Simon Bonwick's impressive one-man show

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

In 2024, maverick chef Simon Bonwick left the nearby Dew Drop Inn to embark on an indefinite stint as the ‘Troublesome Lodger’ on the oak-panelled first floor of the Oarsman pub/restaurant in Marlow. Enter via a discreet door to the left of the pub and head upstairs to a plush dining room that has been decorated with dozens of Bonwick’s own paintings; centre stage is an impressively grand table sporting three little olive shrubs. Here the chef accommodates parties of up to 12 guests, four evenings at week (Thu-Sun). Flawless execution and intensity of flavour, rather than cutting-edge innovation, characterised a six-course menu that began with a little pot of full-flavoured pork pâté topped by a sweetish jellied relish. Next, Parmesan and saffron risotto was comfort food par excellence: creamy and profoundly cheesy, with al dente rice. We spooned it down greedily. Main course of salmon was equally undemanding, but equally pleasing – the succul...

In 2024, maverick chef Simon Bonwick left the nearby Dew Drop Inn to embark on an indefinite stint as the ‘Troublesome Lodger’ on the oak-panelled first floor of the Oarsman pub/restaurant in Marlow. Enter via a discreet door to the left of the pub and head upstairs to a plush dining room that has been decorated with dozens of Bonwick’s own paintings; centre stage is an impressively grand table sporting three little olive shrubs. Here the chef accommodates parties of up to 12 guests, four evenings at week (Thu-Sun).

Flawless execution and intensity of flavour, rather than cutting-edge innovation, characterised a six-course menu that began with a little pot of full-flavoured pork pâté topped by a sweetish jellied relish. Next, Parmesan and saffron risotto was comfort food par excellence: creamy and profoundly cheesy, with al dente rice. We spooned it down greedily. Main course of salmon was equally undemanding, but equally pleasing – the succulent, perfectly cooked fillet topped with a smear of sweet puréed tomato and served with immaculate mash; fresh herbs and cress provided a modicum of crunch.

To follow, a Bleu d’Auvergne ‘mousse’ was again dominated by intense cheesiness, the little ball blended with walnuts and served under a delicate wafer. Before the final flourish of faultless macarons, dessert was another reworked classic: ultra-light chocolate fondant topped with a caramelised (almost burnt) ‘café crumb’ and served with dense, luxurious vanilla ice cream.

Bonwick cooks solo and his only helper is Savannah Baker, who hosts the evening with the charm of an accomplished actress (which she is), as well as pairing the dishes with a diverting selection of wines. If you balk at the £95 tag for the flight of five glasses, remember that the Oarsman’s formidable list is also available and includes more kindly priced 500ml carafes. Sharing a single table with complete strangers adds another capricious element to proceedings – nevertheless, the quality of the cooking and service is undeniable.

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VENUE DETAILS

The Oarsman, 46 Spittal Street
Marlow
Buckinghamshire
SL7 1DBGB

07596 517189

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Credit card required, Deposit required

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