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Best Local Restaurant
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The Trooper

Hertfordshire, Aldbury - Modern British - Pub - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

With its village pond, leafy lanes and film-star looks (it famously featured in The Dirty Dozen), Aldbury has attributes aplenty - including this sensitively refurbished hostelry. Although some lament the passing of its former incarnation as the Valiant Trooper (a rumbustious real ale boozer), the re-branded Trooper still garners strong local support, with low ceilings, ancient knobbly beams and worn floorboards accentuating the 'country pub' feel. There’s only one cask beer on tap in the hidden-away bar these days, with the emphasis now firmly on food. The kitchen is capable of delivering a concise menu of boldly flavoured, inventive dishes augmented by a short list of ‘comforts’ (tweaked pub classics of the burger and mac 'n' cheese variety). While some ideas still require further work (a modestly portioned starter of cured trout paired with pickled cucumber was overwhelmed by a pudding-sweet sauce of lemon balm and lemon sherbet), we were mightily impress...

With its village pond, leafy lanes and film-star looks (it famously featured in The Dirty Dozen), Aldbury has attributes aplenty - including this sensitively refurbished hostelry. Although some lament the passing of its former incarnation as the Valiant Trooper (a rumbustious real ale boozer), the re-branded Trooper still garners strong local support, with low ceilings, ancient knobbly beams and worn floorboards accentuating the 'country pub' feel. There’s only one cask beer on tap in the hidden-away bar these days, with the emphasis now firmly on food. The kitchen is capable of delivering a concise menu of boldly flavoured, inventive dishes augmented by a short list of ‘comforts’ (tweaked pub classics of the burger and mac 'n' cheese variety). While some ideas still require further work (a modestly portioned starter of cured trout paired with pickled cucumber was overwhelmed by a pudding-sweet sauce of lemon balm and lemon sherbet), we were mightily impressed by an astoundingly accomplished main course of roasted local lamb rump (pink, juicy and bursting with flavour), matched with stewed lamb shoulder, potato terrine, a purée of oak-smoked celery root and gravy for which no superlative has yet been coined. Other hits ranging from a punchy opener of 'nduja risotto with wild mushrooms and Old Winchester cheese to a dreamy dessert of chocolate crémeux countered by dark chocolate aero and coffee cake suggest this is a kitchen worth watching. Service is swift and matter-of-fact, while drinks include various cocktails plus a 65-strong selection of wines from everyday quaffs to special-occasion sips. The adjacent Trooper Barn serves coffee, breakfast, brunch and cakes during the day. Note that the pub is a cashless set-up.

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VENUE DETAILS

Trooper Road
Aldbury
Hertfordshire
HP23 5RWGB

01442 949020

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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