The Three Oaks
Gerrards Cross, Buckinghamshire
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Related to the White Oak at Cookham, this solid-looking brick-and-timber hostelry boasts attributes aplenty, including a tidy terrace and manicured garden as well as a cultivated plot for home-grown veg and herbs. Inside, it’s a picture of congenial gentility, an appealing blend of old beams and brick fireplaces with pastel colours and tasteful fabrics – a fitting backdrop for cooking that is more country restaurant than neighbourhood watering hole. The kitchen pays tribute to the seasons by offering a repertoire of elaborate dishes ranging from grilled South Coast skate wing with St Austell mussels, sea vegetables, fennel jam and fish emulsion to roast cannon of lamb partnered by black onion and miso ketchup, buttered kale and green beans. Starters such as curried cauliflower florets with charred paneer and grape gel have a global slant, while dessert might bring lime posset with cherry curd and Pedro Ximénez gel. Alternatively, check out the great-value set lunch, which offers simpler fare ranging from smoked mackerel rillettes to pea and asparagus risotto. To drink, there are local ales at the bar, but also take time to peruse the wine list from Corney & Barrow (from £23) and the bespoke assortment of vintage Burgundies.
