The Swine that Dines
Leeds, West Yorkshire
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It’s taken more than 10 years for Stuart and Jo Myers to develop and refine what began as a fine little sandwich shop, evolved into a simple BYO small-plate restaurant and now, after a gentle upgrade, is the real deal with white tablecloths, a three-course menu (plus extras) and a drinks licence. That’s not to say it’s in any way sophisticated. The Swine remains the delightfully simple, former café it always was, with Jo front of house and Stuart downstairs cooking uncomplicated but very good food. The menu changes regularly but the highlights of a recent visit included a buttery duck liver parfait garnished with broad beans, radishes and grapes, and a dish of fresh crab with hot, crisp polenta fries. There are elegant mains such as sea bass and non-meat options including Jerusalem artichoke with pickled pear, but the high spot must be the menu staple – a beautifully bouncy brioche bun overfilled with thick slices of tender salt-beef brisket dribbling with melting cream cheese and, alongside, some lightly pickled veg. Jo makes the puddings. Ice cream is where she gets experimental with flavours such as olive oil, tea and biscuits, blue cheese, and tobacco poured over coffee as an affogato, which she irreverently names ‘coffee and a fag’. Her classic custard tart with poached plums is unassailable. Then there is Pie Sunday. Usually that means a simple starter, a homely pud and a changing roster of pies: beef and mushroom; chicken, ham and leek; pumpkin, leek and chickpea, each served with mash and gravy. The Swine is all you would wish of a little local restaurant doing things simply but very, very well. It's a delight.
