The Suffolk
Aldeburgh, Suffolk
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*Following James Jay's departure, local boy Tom Payne has moved up the ranks and taken over as head chef. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
The story of The Suffolk, in brief, is one of a bold response to COVID by the team behind L’Escargot in Soho; an adventure to pastures (or seashores) new, falling in love with a place so deeply that a pop-up fling became a permanent thing. The handsome former coaching inn is in the final stages of a sensitive renovation, complete with boutique bedrooms, a sea-view terrace and a downstairs restaurant. The latter is a stylish space but still very ‘neighbourhood’ in its lively energy and friendliness. Settle onto the leather banquettes for a feast of classically rooted but contemporary cooking that might begin with the silvery glimmer of Butley Creek oysters, and continue with lobster, grilled and glossed with garlicky butter, a piece of turbot cooked till it slip-slides away from its bone into a gloriously savoury chicken cream sauce, or a whole brill to share. Seafood triumphs here, just a few shingly steps from the North Sea, but you may well be tempted by côte de boeuf (there’s enough for two), with some charred hispi cabbage showered with Parmesan – just add a heap of golden hasselback potatoes to make it an even more robust plateful. Otherwise, go retro with a veal schnitzel or dive into the umami thrill of a cep tart with roasted shallots and a mustard cream sauce. Choux au craquelin filled with sea buckthorn crème patissière – the berry gives a deliciously balancing tang to the cream – is the highlight of a dessert line-up that also includes Fen Farm buttermilk panna cottta, and poached pear with chocolate mousse. A handful of wines is offered by the glass on a French-leaning list that opens at £26 but quickly heads north to top out at £480 for a bold 2019 Super Tuscan from the Ornellaia winery in Bolgheri.
