Search the Good Food Guide - Site Settings site

Location

Establishment Type

Cuisine

Price

Clear
  View all 6 photos
  /6
X

The Sparsholt

Oxfordshire, Sparsholt - Modern British - Restaurant with rooms - ££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

From the moment the bread arrives (moreish chewy sourdough with a baba ganoush dip as well as butter) until the delicate macaroons are presented with the bill, you know this is no ordinary restaurant with rooms. Flurries of clued-up, well-trained staff, confirm the impression of a well-run operation, despite the odd minor slip-up. The Sparsholt (formerly The Star) is now owned by the folk behind the renowned Woodspeen near Newbury, who carried out a major refurb on this former pub, reopening it in June 2022. The Woodspeen’s exec chef, Peter Eaton, also guides proceedings here and produces highly considered, enticing seasonal menus. Choose from a brief set deal or the inventive modern British carte, where a deep-fried ball of smoked haddock brandade could be matched with crunchy sweet-and-sour turnip slices, pulled pork and a terrific fennel-flavoured fish broth. To follow, two slices of roasted venison haunch maintained the lofty standards, ably abetted by beetroot, maitake mushr...

From the moment the bread arrives (moreish chewy sourdough with a baba ganoush dip as well as butter) until the delicate macaroons are presented with the bill, you know this is no ordinary restaurant with rooms. Flurries of clued-up, well-trained staff, confirm the impression of a well-run operation, despite the odd minor slip-up. The Sparsholt (formerly The Star) is now owned by the folk behind the renowned Woodspeen near Newbury, who carried out a major refurb on this former pub, reopening it in June 2022. The Woodspeen’s exec chef, Peter Eaton, also guides proceedings here and produces highly considered, enticing seasonal menus. Choose from a brief set deal or the inventive modern British carte, where a deep-fried ball of smoked haddock brandade could be matched with crunchy sweet-and-sour turnip slices, pulled pork and a terrific fennel-flavoured fish broth. To follow, two slices of roasted venison haunch maintained the lofty standards, ably abetted by beetroot, maitake mushroom, black garlic, pulled venison shoulder and a tangy elderberry gravy: flavours, textures, colours, presentation, all on song. Neither should the set menu be discounted: smoked mackerel rillettes boosted by piquant pickled cucumber, beetroot and sourdough croûtons might precede a brilliant-white slab of pan-fried pollock with a crispy hash brown, roasted fennel and balsamic dressing. Pudding? From the autumn set menu, Paris-Brest with blackberry fool, zesty pickled apple and blackberries made a fitting finale. The 18th-century premises have been sensitively converted, witness the scrubbed wooden beams, backlit bar and vibrant modern art on the walls. The look, and the cool jazz soundtrack, finds favour with Oxfordshire’s well-heeled couples and foursomes who also appreciate the choice from an extensive drinks list. Expect an assortment of cocktails plus some 200 wines, including ample selections by the glass – there are no annotations, though staff will happily (and sensibly) talk you through the options.

Read full reviewSee less

VENUE DETAILS

Watery Lane
Sparsholt
Oxfordshire
OX12 9PLGB

01235 751873

View opening times

Make a reservation

OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly

More like this

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    •  

       

       

    Latest articles