The Saddle & Spoke

Biggleswade, Bedfordshire

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A prominent 17th-century edifice, this rebranded pub and restaurant references the town’s early contribution to the development of the bicycle. At lunch, there’s a simple menu of sandwiches and pub classics, but dinner offers a collection of seasonally attuned dishes with influences from across the planet. In autumn, that might mean luscious, tender ale- and soy-glazed pork belly with apple/yuzu purée and pork popcorn ahead of boldly flavoured cod cheeks and gnocchi with spicy salsiccia di Calabria, samphire, sun-dried tomato and saffron cream. The food is backed by hand-picked ales, cocktails and a concise but commendably priced wine list.