The Rose & Crown

Snettisham, Norfolk

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Small wonder the Rose & Crown attracts comments such as ‘our go-to pub’. Under the same ownership for nearly 30 years, this venerable hostelry-with-rooms is a reliable stalwart: equally popular with thirsty villagers, second-home owners and holidaymakers sneaking inland from the coast. It’s near Snettisham’s church and was built about the same time, a 14th-century whitewashed beauty with two gorgeous old bars (all beams, open fires, real ales and general cosiness) and a large, light dining room extension – its beachside vibe helped by part-panelled walls and wooden rafters hung with fairy lights. Outside in the enclosed garden, the theme continues with new beach-hut bars joining the established children’s play area. The seasonal menu of modern pub food also has a seaside accent (Brancaster mussels is a ‘signature’ in cooler months), boosted by specials and ‘classics’ such as burgers, curries and steaks. There are plenty of high points – from pea, mint and Norfolk Mardler (cheese) risotto to precision-cooked whole plaice paired with perfect in-season purple sprouting broccoli. Best of all during our visit was an expertly wrought combo of passion fruit gâteau, passion fruit parfait and lemon tart with raspberry coulis, which could have graced any haute cuisine establishment. Less heart-gladdening was a lacklustre Thai sauce in an otherwise praiseworthy dish of linguine with plump prawns and tender squid, while our chocolate and hazelnut tart has thick, dryish pastry. Service dwindled as the afternoon wore on, yet it was hard to blame the cheery young waitresses. Drinkers supping pints of Woodforde’s Wherry populate the bars, while vinophiles can choose from a serviceable list that includes a trio of Norfolk wines.