The Pilgrim
North Marston , Buckinghamshire
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With regulars filling the bar on a warm weekday evening, and more chewing the cud outside in the huge grassy beer garden, it's clear that the folk of North Marston cherish their classic village pub. Low beams, scrubbed pine furniture and various nooks and crannies combine to make a cosy haven, where incomers are also welcomed by cheery, informal staff. As well as a lauded Sunday roast, the kitchen delivers a winter menu and a summer ‘garden’ menu (dishes change weekly), both incorporating snacks and larger tapas-style plates for sharing. Flavour-packed Anglo-Mediterranean ideas predominated at our visit. A meaty assortment of devilled mushrooms in creamy mustard sauce arrived on a slice of sourdough, as did a long-simmered vegetable ragù, made appealingly nutty with walnuts. Luscious dollops of burrata were another highlight, matched with red-pepper tapenade and a crunchy mixed-seed dukkah. Larger dishes might include flavoursome grilled lamb kofte (though opinion was divided about the slightly sweet applewood-smoked yoghurt accompaniment), and a wonderful hearty bowl of mussels in tomato sauce generously leavened with ’nduja. Puddings tend to be classics such as a rich panna cotta, served with tangy raspberry compôte and fresh raspberries. Local ales, proper draught cider and a refreshingly priced, varied wine list add to the appeal, while a soundtrack of Chicago blues speaks of the owners' enthusiasm for music. Note that it's bar food only during the monthly open-mic and quiz nights, while the regular summer barbecues at this admirable community-focused pub are ‘a treat not to be missed’.
