The Parakeet
Kentish Town, London
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The Victorian bones of the former Oxford Tavern have been smartened up with dapper sage-green walls, swathes of polished wood, bold statement-making stained glass and dark-green leather banquettes, allowing the Parakeet to play its part as an elegantly rebooted neighbourhood hostelry. The place welcomes drinkers as well as diners, with a large front bar and (reached through heavy curtains at the back) a smaller dining room with an open kitchen – featuring a wood-fired oven and grill on prominent display. Chef Ben Allen worked under Tomos Parry at Brat, so fire and smoke are in his DNA – though on a balmy August evening, the blackboard menu was a lesson in balance. Grilled meaty options such as smoked mutton sausage or steak and onions were offset by light, summery choices including a pair of creamy, delicate spider crab croquettes, a lovely assembly of sea bass crudo with gooseberries and horseradish, and trout with sea herbs in a superb butter sauce. Vegetable dishes are no afterthought, either. Simple, smart and made with high quality ingredients, a main course of courgette and chilli ricotta with quinoa was very enjoyable – the chilli adding a pleasant warmth, which suited the delicate overall flavour. To start, the delicious potato bread with smoked butter is not to be missed, although desserts can be hit or miss. We had heard good things of the chocolate torte but it had sadly run out and we weren’t impressed by the apricot Bakewell. You will drink well from a confident, modern wine list – cocktails and draught beer add support.
