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Best Sunday Roast
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The Pack Horse

Derbyshire, Hayfield - Modern British - Pub - ££

Picture-postcard Peak District charmer

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

At the Pack Horse, chef/owner Luke Payne and his partner Emma have created a stylish take on High Peak rusticity. The pub is in the centre of Hayfield, which has emerged from its 'working mill' heritage into a picture-postcard charmer. While still quenching the thirsts of locals, gallery browsers and walkers, Luke and Emma’s focus has been on creating a dining destination. Bar snacks of the 'posh nibble' variety (oysters, olives, charcuterie, chips) are always available and there's a special 'charcoal oven' menu on Wednesday nights, in addition to the regular offerings. Starters might include a traditional chicken and pig's trotter terrine, comfortingly rich with gelatinous meat and cut through with punchy mustard mayonnaise and crisp homemade pickles. It would be criminal not to showcase the local lamb, so delicate cutlets take centre stage against harissa carrots and a more traditional split-pea purée, with an intriguing duo of anchovy salsa verde and apricot ketchup in...

At the Pack Horse, chef/owner Luke Payne and his partner Emma have created a stylish take on High Peak rusticity. The pub is in the centre of Hayfield, which has emerged from its 'working mill' heritage into a picture-postcard charmer. While still quenching the thirsts of locals, gallery browsers and walkers, Luke and Emma’s focus has been on creating a dining destination. Bar snacks of the 'posh nibble' variety (oysters, olives, charcuterie, chips) are always available and there's a special 'charcoal oven' menu on Wednesday nights, in addition to the regular offerings.

Starters might include a traditional chicken and pig's trotter terrine, comfortingly rich with gelatinous meat and cut through with punchy mustard mayonnaise and crisp homemade pickles. It would be criminal not to showcase the local lamb, so delicate cutlets take centre stage against harissa carrots and a more traditional split-pea purée, with an intriguing duo of anchovy salsa verde and apricot ketchup in attendance. A fresh dessert of flavour-filled local strawberries with tarragon ice cream, buckwheat crumble and verjus is unusual but successful.

Sunday roasts are also a good shout, with all the trimmings coming as standard whether you order the melting beef sirloin, the braised lamb shoulder or even the veggie option (carrot, tenderstem broccoli and Tunworth tart, say). A decent range of local beers and spirits, plus a small wine list give plenty of matching options for the food. This is elegant, thoughtful and technically competent cooking. Portions, however, are modest and side orders are needed to supplement the minimalist plating – so it's probably better suited to those exploring the village’s sights and industrial heritage rather than those who’ve just yomped up Kinder Scout.

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L Walsh

24 September 2024

Reassuringly like a home cooked roast but without the stress, timing issues, burnt bits, dry bits, mushy bits or washing up. Okay then, nothing like a home cooked roast but the roast you actually dream of. Perfect in fact. Crunchy, fluffy, melt-in-your-mouthy... Lovely atmosphere with cheerful knowledgeable staff. What more could you want except maybe a sofa to nap on?

VENUE DETAILS

3-5 Market Street
Hayfield
Derbyshire
SK22 2EPGB

01663 749126

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OTHER INFORMATION

Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required

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