The Oyster Club
Birmingham, West Midlands
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*Head chef Rosanna Moseley has left and been replaced by Stuart Langdell, whose CV includes The Cross at Kenilworth, Warwickshire. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
High tables and counter seating at the marble-topped oyster bar create an informal vibe at this expansive second venue from Adam and Natasha Stokes (owners of nearby Adam’s, also close to New Street station). The name says it all, with titular bivalves from beds in Jersey, West Mersea, Falmouth and beyond stealing much of the limelight. Otherwise, there are snacks and small plates such as pickled mackerel with cucumber and smoked eel croûtes, potted shrimps or seared tuna sashimi – a perfect fit for cocktail-sipping Brummies. For something more substantial, trade-up to bigger helpings of, say, lobster risotto, XO-glazed skate wing with charred pak choi or luxurious roast turbot on the bone with beurre noisette and cockles. Seafood may be king here, but that doesn’t stop Adam Stokes from slipping in the odd meat and veggie option (pork chop with salsa verde, smoked goat’s cheese tart) or going full tilt with a mighty Sunday roast – Wiltshire chateaubriand, no less. For afters, save some room for a pear choux bun or share a tarte tatin. A commendable international grab-bag of fish-friendly wines covers plenty of ground, all the way to the loftiest French tipples.
