The Orange Bird
Sheffield, South Yorkshire
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Utterly comfortable and scented irresistibly by the smoke from the braai grill, Orange Bird tops the neighbourhood pecking order. Chef Matt Duggan-Jones grew up in South Africa, and the menu is his compelling homage to the dishes of his homeland, taken to Hillsborough's heart by loyal locals – though the tram's so easy, it might as well be in town. The concept of one-room dining, backed by a semi-open kitchen, is relaxedly cool, but the charcoal is hot. From it, a tangy, puffy fermented potato flatbread has a gorgeous char to go with the sweet depth of a starter of white-bean houmous, onion caramel and nigella seeds. Alongside the big hitters – whole braai mackerel with pickled rhubarb or a mixed grill of boerewors, smoked pork belly and chicken wings – there are some thoughtful veggie options too. Also check out the 'chops chutney', a triumphant treatment of a fine Barnsley chop in a richly spiced tomato sauce, its fat crisp and almost fluffy, with gently curried rice on the side. Puddings such as an OB Peppermint Crisp tart (a chocolate cake fulsomely stacked with cream cheese, caramel and chunks of the much-loved minty confectionery) are less precisely calibrated but are still a lot of fun. Wines, from orange to crémant, are South African, interesting and – like the menu – fairly priced.
