The Midland Grand Dining Room
King's Cross, London
Grand, in a famous Parisian brasserie kind of way, this successful reworking of the former Gilbert Scott restaurant (last seen in the Guide in 2013) is to be applauded. Mid-Victorian splendours run to lots of gilding, mosaics, double-height ceilings and soaring pillars – the bar is a visual joy, the dining room magnificent. Comfortably appointed with big, well-spaced tables, it’s relaxed, unstuffy and – in the tradition of railway hotels of old – a perfect meeting place. Patrick Powell divides his time between here and Allegra at the Stratford Hotel in E20, and his kitchen turns out a mix of French brasserie classics (pâté en croûte, fruits de mer, sirloin of grass-fed beef with sauce au poivre) and more contemporary ideas (snails bourguignon with pomme paillasson, ‘nduja and guanciale, say). The overall result is carefully assured cooking, from lamb's sweetbreads piled with sweetcorn and trompette mushrooms in a jalapeño vol-au-vent to a classic crème caramel. But on our visit, it was a generous tranche of chalk stream trout, finished with a smoked butter and vermouth beurre blanc, that impressed the most – both technically and in terms of pure enjoyment. Our verdict? A reliable French brasserie for people who appreciate good food and are happy to pay a premium. That said, the set lunch and early dinner menu is good value. The wine list covers all bases, though you'll be hard pressed to find much under £50 (125ml glasses start at £7).
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, King's Cross NW1 2AR
020 7341 3000
