The Longs Arms
South Wraxall, Wiltshire
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What’s not to love about this handsome pub set in beautiful Wiltshire countryside – especially as it also has a serious reputation for food. Poke your head through the door and it’s a welcoming sight: low ceilings, a flagstone floor, well-worn tables, a mixture of chairs and church pews, a woodburner under the mantelpiece, fairy lights twinkling in the windows. Chef-patron Rob Allcock cooks hearty renditions of modern British food, mixing pub classics such as battered haddock with mushy peas, chips and tartare sauce with more adventurous fare – say a starter of home-smoked salmon with cucumber, yuzu, oat and linseed granola, keta and lemon oil. Provenance is immaculate (a lot of produce comes from the pub's own kitchen garden), and Allcock’s skills shine through – from the delicious home-baked warm sourdough at the start of our meal to the refreshing blackberry sorbet accompanying a generous slice of Liverpool tart with rhubarb and nougatine that concluded proceedings. Although there are occasional missteps, recent praise is not misplaced: Allcock’s ‘love of cooking comes out in all his dishes,’ noted one fan. There are plenty of by-the-glass selections on the well-researched wine list, but do try the excellent local ales in this freehouse. Prices suggest that the Longs Arms may be more of a 'special occasion' destination rather than a weekly haunt, but if you want to make a night of it, the recently converted ‘Piggery’ offers a luxurious prospect for an overnight stay.
