GFG archive
Through the archives: Brett Graham at The Ledbury, first entry
A blazingly talented chef who cooks with vigour, authority and audacious brio, Brett Graham has been hailed as a pioneer in the development of British modernism – delivering the kind of cooking that saw The Ledbury (which opened in 2005) catapulted into the first division of London dining. The restaurant closed in 2020 when Covid-19 restrictions made it too difficult to operate, but it reopened, relatively quietly, in February 2022. Here, we look at its earliest entry to the Guide in 2007, with inspectors hailing a ‘superbly judged’ raviolo of crab and a meat dish that proved to be a ‘lesson in balance’.
