The Jetty

Christchurch, Dorset

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Positioned on the water's edge to max out the views across Christchurch Harbour, The Jetty is a modern construction with acres of glass to ensure that those panoramic vistas are served up to one and all (there's a terrace, too, if you want to feel even closer to nature). Alex Aitken is a chef with a passion for seasonal cooking (and a bit of a legend in these parts), and it's satisfying to report that fresh seafood from local waters is the backbone of his menu – no surprise given the glorious coastal location. Cockle popcorn, crispy and lightly spiced, is a little snack which sums up the ambition and joie de vivre of the place. A starter plate of sashimi (including sea bass and scallop) stands or falls on its freshness and its classic Japanese accompaniments, or there's fish soup – a classic from another continent. Elsewhere, cod and crab are firm friends, the former topped with the latter in a herby crust, and it's worth keeping an eye out for the 'catch of the day'. Away from the coast, there are other options such as beef carpaccio or a deliciously green spring risotto to start, followed by the likes of lamb panzanella with rosemary polenta. For afters, crêpe Suzette soufflé combines two archetypal French desserts. A tasting menu might fit the bill if the whole table is on board, while the vegan and vegetarian option doesn't stint on creativity or flavour. The wine list opens at £29, and includes sections dedicated to 'cult and classic' whites and reds.