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The Halfway at Kineton

Gloucestershire, Guiting Power - Modern British - Pub with rooms - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

In a rural enclave some 12 miles east of Cheltenham, the Halfway at Kineton has been revitalised under the stewardship of chef Nathan Eades and Liam Goff (formerly of the Wild Rabbit at Kingham). Dating from the 17th century, and with the river Windrush meandering nearby, their new home is an inviting, stone-built vision of Cotswold rusticity, complete with a garden that’s geared up for summertime fire-pit BBQs and beers. Inside, visitors can expect rustic farmhouse furniture, shiny leather chesterfields and other gentrified trappings, while the food speaks of seasonality. Eades works to an ever-evolving repertoire of gussied-up pub fare with a refined, sophisticated edge. Meticulous technique and pin-sharp presentation are the hallmarks, from nibbles of velvety tarama topped with crispy onions (‘an absolute delight’) to emphatically nostalgic desserts such as sticky toffee pudding (irresistibly moist sponge drenched in a treacly sauce) or Arctic roll with a nutty ice...

In a rural enclave some 12 miles east of Cheltenham, the Halfway at Kineton has been revitalised under the stewardship of chef Nathan Eades and Liam Goff (formerly of the Wild Rabbit at Kingham). Dating from the 17th century, and with the river Windrush meandering nearby, their new home is an inviting, stone-built vision of Cotswold rusticity, complete with a garden that’s geared up for summertime fire-pit BBQs and beers. Inside, visitors can expect rustic farmhouse furniture, shiny leather chesterfields and other gentrified trappings, while the food speaks of seasonality. Eades works to an ever-evolving repertoire of gussied-up pub fare with a refined, sophisticated edge. Meticulous technique and pin-sharp presentation are the hallmarks, from nibbles of velvety tarama topped with crispy onions (‘an absolute delight’) to emphatically nostalgic desserts such as sticky toffee pudding (irresistibly moist sponge drenched in a treacly sauce) or Arctic roll with a nutty ice-cream filling harmonised by the tanginess of fresh raspberries. In between, there’s also plenty to impress. Our BBQ mackerel with a refreshing fennel, radish and pickled cucumber salad was a beautifully balanced starter with noticeable Scandi overtones – although the 24-month Comté rarebit on sourdough (cheese on toast taken to another level) also proved irresistible. Even better was a ‘sensational’ plate of melting braised lamb shoulder, accompanied by champ potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and olive tapenade. The pub’s renowned celeriac and mushroom pie was also an outright winner. Sunday lunch brings roast joints with all the trimmings, while drinks include zesty cocktails, local ales from Donnington Brewery and a slate of reasonably priced wines.

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R Brett

11 February 2024

We ate here at lunchtime on a Friday and it was good to see the place buzzing with happy diners. Our experience reinforces your overall review; very good and quite sophisticated pub food. It's good to see a Donnington's pub in quite a remote location having a successful new life. We had a Scotch egg and a really good, well made and tasty partridge and pork terrine; and then a cod loin with tomato and bean cassoulet and an absolutely outstanding double baked soufflé. We tried desserts; a very su...
We ate here at lunchtime on a Friday and it was good to see the place buzzing with happy diners. Our experience reinforces your overall review; very good and quite sophisticated pub food. It's good to see a Donnington's pub in quite a remote location having a successful new life. We had a Scotch egg and a really good, well made and tasty partridge and pork terrine; and then a cod loin with tomato and bean cassoulet and an absolutely outstanding double baked soufflé. We tried desserts; a very successful chocolate cremeux with a blood orange sauce and an OK lemon posset. Service was friendly and very efficient. It's clear that this place is popular with locals as well as people like us who have come some way. There were a good few racing people here and the place must be a blast in Cheltenham week if you can get in. Total cost, including service, was £106. not cheap for a pub round these parts, but good value for money.
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VENUE DETAILS

Kineton
Guiting Power
Gloucestershire
GL54 5UGGB

07425 970507

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Counter seating, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly

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