The Halfway at Kineton
Guiting Power, Gloucestershire
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In a rural enclave some 12 miles east of Cheltenham, the Halfway at Kineton has been revitalised under the stewardship of chef Nathan Eades and Liam Goff (formerly of the Wild Rabbit at Kingham). Dating from the 17th century, and with the river Windrush meandering nearby, their new home is an inviting, stone-built vision of Cotswold rusticity, complete with a garden that’s geared up for summertime fire-pit BBQs and beers. Inside, visitors can expect rustic farmhouse furniture, shiny leather chesterfields and other gentrified trappings, while the food speaks of seasonality. Eades works to an ever-evolving repertoire of gussied-up pub fare with a refined, sophisticated edge. Meticulous technique and pin-sharp presentation are the hallmarks, from nibbles of velvety tarama topped with crispy onions (‘an absolute delight’) to emphatically nostalgic desserts such as sticky toffee pudding (irresistibly moist sponge drenched in a treacly sauce) or Arctic roll with a nutty ice-cream filling harmonised by the tanginess of fresh raspberries. In between, there’s also plenty to impress. Our BBQ mackerel with a refreshing fennel, radish and pickled cucumber salad was a beautifully balanced starter with noticeable Scandi overtones – although the 24-month Comté rarebit on sourdough (cheese on toast taken to another level) also proved irresistible. Even better was a ‘sensational’ plate of melting braised lamb shoulder, accompanied by champ potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and olive tapenade. The pub’s renowned celeriac and mushroom pie was also an outright winner. Sunday lunch brings roast joints with all the trimmings, while drinks include zesty cocktails, local ales from Donnington Brewery and a slate of reasonably priced wines.
