The Grill by Tom Booton
Hyde Park, London
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The majestic lobby of the venerable Dorchester went through an extensive renovation in 2022 and now makes a stunning entrance to the Grill; the whole setting could not be more appealing. The warmth of the dining room is extraordinary, with a stunning chandelier hanging from the high gilt-laden ceiling, soft tan-leather seating, solid wood tables, shimmering mirrors and a swanky bar giving it the feel of an exclusive club – although the vibe is pleasingly informal. The kitchen is overseen by executive chef Tom Booton, who has devised an inventive menu with seven dishes at each course, all underpinned by prime seasonal produce. Expect ‘beautiful plates of food’: 'faultless' line-caught mackerel with modish dashi jelly and pickled cucumber, say, or a plump roasted quail breast, its gamey flavour counterbalanced by pickled cabbage and potato cubes cooked with Parmesan (rather like a risotto), plus its crispy legs (skilfully deboned) on the side. Other standouts include a ‘delectable’ lobster thermidor tart (roasted lobster tail atop a crumbly tart filled with Cheddar blanketed with thermidor foam and set on a rich shellfish bisque), and an unbelievably flaky Waterloo cheese tartlet resembling an outsized pastel de nata topped with onion relish. For the finale, you are invited to pull up a stool at the pudding bar to chat to the pastry chefs while they prepare desserts, perhaps a 'properly indulgent' choux bun filled with plum jam, fresh plum and yoghurt ice cream, crowned with almond purée and finished with gin-infused plum juice. Genial staff brim with youthful exuberance and a can-do attitude. Wines are an impressive selection of fine bottles from around the globe, although French premiers crus dominate – including notable Champagnes and a prized collection of Ch. Pétrus. Prices start from around £40, with 30 wines by the glass from £9.
