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The Griffin

Buckinghamshire, Amersham - Modern European - Restaurant - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

In the heart of Old Amersham, this self-styled 'bistro and club' has quickly found its step. The site itself – a former coaching inn – certainly adds to the venue's local popularity, with the dining room occupying an impressive space full of ancient beams and designer wallpaper (spot the cheetahs). Our visit began with a refreshing chilled cucumber and buttermilk soup made yet more tangy with a scoop of vinegary chimichurri sauce; extra crunch was provided by ribbons of kohlrabi and thinly sliced radish. Carefully thought-out textural variation featured throughout the meal, witness a starter of spider crab salad (served in its shell), boosted by crunchy puffed rice. Main courses perhaps went overboard with the oil yet were inventive and accurately cooked assemblies: meaty miso-poached ray wing with garlic prawns and watercress pesto, and a vegetarian dish of Jersey Royals 'hasselback' matched with braised lettuce, a few strands of seaweed and creamy whipped feta. Sides of c...

In the heart of Old Amersham, this self-styled 'bistro and club' has quickly found its step. The site itself – a former coaching inn – certainly adds to the venue's local popularity, with the dining room occupying an impressive space full of ancient beams and designer wallpaper (spot the cheetahs). Our visit began with a refreshing chilled cucumber and buttermilk soup made yet more tangy with a scoop of vinegary chimichurri sauce; extra crunch was provided by ribbons of kohlrabi and thinly sliced radish. Carefully thought-out textural variation featured throughout the meal, witness a starter of spider crab salad (served in its shell), boosted by crunchy puffed rice. Main courses perhaps went overboard with the oil yet were inventive and accurately cooked assemblies: meaty miso-poached ray wing with garlic prawns and watercress pesto, and a vegetarian dish of Jersey Royals 'hasselback' matched with braised lettuce, a few strands of seaweed and creamy whipped feta. Sides of champ mash with onion crumb, and hispi cabbage with smoked almonds and harissa completed the elaborate picture. Puddings, too, are intricate constructions, with a tangy passion-fruit posset presented as little scoops sharing a bowl with elderflower sorbet, crunchy coconut wafers, sorrel and chunks of cucumber. Service has its ups and downs, but is affable, and the wine list is notable for its concise tally of fine vintages and its wide selection of by-the-glass options – including a tasty little Romanian Pinot Grigio house white. Cash not accepted.

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VENUE DETAILS

12 The Broadway
Amersham
Buckinghamshire
HP7 0HPGB

01494 326820

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required

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