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The Greyhound Inn

Oxfordshire, Letcombe Regis - Modern British - Pub with rooms - ££

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

You can still pop in for a pint of (effervescently fresh) ale at this inviting old country pub with rooms in a little village outside Wantage, but the many dining tables in a succession of rooms of varying colour schemes (dark red, aquamarine, beige) give a clue to its priorities. Forget pickled eggs: ‘nibbles’ might include macaroons filled with creamy goat's cheese and beetroot jam – a very grown-up combination of crunchy and creamy, sweet and savoury. The menu is divertingly adventurous, with hits outnumbering misses in the execution of often complex dishes. Our visit kicked off with an exemplary cheese soufflé, which arrived in a sauce-like smoked haddock chowder featuring generous chunks of fish and halved new potatoes. Elsewhere, the intriguing accompaniments to Asian-spiced pig’s cheek with pear (wasabi and lime mayonnaise alongside pear and star-anise purée) may have been surprisingly timid, but there was no doubting the quality of the meat...

You can still pop in for a pint of (effervescently fresh) ale at this inviting old country pub with rooms in a little village outside Wantage, but the many dining tables in a succession of rooms of varying colour schemes (dark red, aquamarine, beige) give a clue to its priorities. Forget pickled eggs: ‘nibbles’ might include macaroons filled with creamy goat's cheese and beetroot jam – a very grown-up combination of crunchy and creamy, sweet and savoury. The menu is divertingly adventurous, with hits outnumbering misses in the execution of often complex dishes. Our visit kicked off with an exemplary cheese soufflé, which arrived in a sauce-like smoked haddock chowder featuring generous chunks of fish and halved new potatoes. Elsewhere, the intriguing accompaniments to Asian-spiced pig’s cheek with pear (wasabi and lime mayonnaise alongside pear and star-anise purée) may have been surprisingly timid, but there was no doubting the quality of the meat or the theatricality of its presentation – in a Kilner jar foggy with wood smoke. Complexity also distinguished the main courses, from duck breast (beautiful juicy pink meat unusually boosted by blobs of Shropshire Blue cheese sauce, as well as very sweet red cabbage and blueberry ketchup) to precisely pan-fried coley with potato and nori terrine, smoked mussels and a dashi beurre blanc. For pudding, the peanut-butter parfait with sweet-salty miso and banana purée tasted as good as it looked. Service is informal yet engaging. The well-annotated wine list holds plenty of interest at fair prices, and the ‘lunch for less’ deal is also enticing – as is the new outdoor dining area. Pinpoint accuracy with flavours would make this Greyhound a racing cert, but already it’s definitely worth a punt.

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VENUE DETAILS

Main Street
Letcombe Regis
Oxfordshire
OX12 9JL GB

01235 771969

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required

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