The Ginger Pig

Hove, East Sussex

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Across the road from Hove's esplanade, this revamped pub – now dressed up as a restaurant with rooms – forms one quarter of chef Ben McKellar's Brighton-based dominion. It's now picked out in contemporary shades of grey, the capacious interior opened up into a moody and atmospheric dining area, with 11 boutique bedrooms on the two floors above. There is a bar area, but make no mistake, this ain't no old-school boozer – cocktails out-punch the beers, but you can still grab a pint of Harvey's Best Bitter. The menu seeks to combine modern comforts with a refined touch and does so with breezy confidence. Take a Scotch egg, for example, somewhat overdone you might think, but here it's a rabbit version, the meat rich and tender, encasing a quail's egg, with accompanying pickles and chive sour cream. Flavours are nabbed from far and wide and handled deftly – lentil dhal and saffron velouté with roast cod, goat's cheese gnocchi with tender lamb sirloin, and a burger with smoked chilli mustard. A blackboard lists some specials such as lamb pie with spring greens and mash, while a blood orange trifle flavoured with Cointreau 'stole the show' for one visitor. Those cocktails and beers are supported by a wine wine list that has breadth by the glass, carafe and bottle. An affection for local things includes three Ridgeview sparklers from the nearby village of Ditchling.