The Ginger Fox
Albourne, West Sussex
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With its neat mop of thatch, crowned with figures of a fox chasing a pheasant, this thoroughly spruced-up, contemporary pub – a country cousin of The Ginger Pig and The Gingerman (in Brighton & Hove) – is an idyllic-looking place right out of central casting. With the Downs looming in the distance, it boasts a pretty garden shielded from the road by tall trees, a smart children's playground tucked away in a corner, and a proper bar with cask ales and keg lagers. But dining is king here (booking is advised), with a menu of modern British food reflecting current trends. ‘It feels smart but not overly posh.’ Crispy jalapeños with Brighton Blue cheese is a snack to get you fired up, before a starter of, say, ham hock and cornichon terrine, where traditional flavours get the gel and pickle treatment (piccalilli and cauliflower, respectively). Monkfish tail with paprika crumb is the closest you'll come to fish and chips here (served with a cassoulet of haricot beans and chorizo), although you can get a fix of duck-fat chips with a 35-day aged rump steak. Daily specials might include a pie (chicken and mushroom, say), and fish is a winner judging by a perfectly cooked fillet of hake with summer vegetables and fish velouté. Sunday roasts such as leg of lamb and belly of pork are crowd-pleasers, while non-meat eaters fare well across the board. Finish with cardamom frangipane, poached apricots, apricot gel, honeycomb and clotted-cream ice cream. Classic cocktails and an intelligently gathered wine list support the beers at the bar, with Sussex vintages getting proper appreciation; a dedicated Sussex flight truly celebrates its fabulous terroir.
