The Fox
Willian, Hertfordshire
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It's worth knowing about this revamped 18th-century pub with rooms overlooking Willian’s village green – it's just a short drive from the A1. If you’re after something quick and casual, head to the smart open-plan bar for a pint of real ale and a plate of Orford oysters. Alternatively, trade up to a full meal in the atrium-style dining room. The owners have strong supply lines to the north Norfolk coast for fish, so look for daily specials and well-crafted modern dishes with lots of components – from buckets of Brancaster mussels to pan-roasted stone bass with salmon tortellini, braised pearl barley, celeriac risotto and charred baby leeks. Otherwise, there is meat and game in abundance – perhaps Hampshire pork belly dressed with pickled walnut ketchup, roasted parsnip and pine-nut crumb. The kitchen also caters admirably for those with special dietary needs. To finish, tiramisu with matcha, kirsch cherry and white chocolate aero was a winner for one visitor, although the treacle tart with buttermilk ice cream is hard to resist. Service is 'polite, efficient and attentive', while three-dozen wines include ample options by the glass. A new landscaped garden area (with its own bar) promises plenty of outside eating opportunities.
