The Eskdale
Castleton, North Yorkshire
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The transition from an unloved, sticky-carpeted old boozer deep in the heart of the North York Moors to a smart, comfortable fine-dining pub is down to the hard work of owners Marcus Boxshall-Smith and Kirsty Wheller. The kitchen is run by Murray Wilson (ex Rudding Park’s Horto), and he’s a very visible presence in the dining room, bringing out dishes such as pea velouté with Baron Bigod gougère. It's a hard act to pull off, but Wilson wears his considerable skills lightly and lets the ingredients do the talking, with predictably delightful results. BBQ Scottish mackerel is teamed with heirloom carrots, saffron aioli and sorrel, while North Sea cod (with scallop mousse, peas, turnip and caviar sauce) is a beautifully executed dish that gives the fish star billing. Duck breast comes with ?smoked and pickled beetroots, a bay leaf sauce? anchoring the whole thing. Desserts don’t disappoint: an elegant lemon posset with raspberries and cardamom shortbread, and a dish called strawberry cheesecake that is so much more – enlivened with elderflower and champagne foam 'marvellous'. The wine list is a crowd-pleaser – although you can also score a cracking pint of Black Sheep Bitter; after all, this is Yorkshire and you're in a pub.
