The Crown Inn
Upton, Hampshire
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A little bit of magic can happen when a traditional country pub is taken over by an experienced and driven chef. This old white-painted inn on a quiet lane has kept most of its expected accoutrements, with real fires, painted beams and a scarlet-coloured bar stocked with real ales, while chef-patron Dave Watts’ ‘smartly presented’ seasonal menu champions local produce sourced directly from farms surrounding the village. A conservatory with quarry tiles and rustic tables is the pick of the indoor dining areas, with the good-looking patio garden sporting handsome H'igloos (Hampshire igloos) complete with wood-burners. Expect ‘hearty’ twice-baked Tunworth cheese soufflé with pineapple chutney or freshly made egg pasta with braised lamb shoulder topped with local goat’s cheese – not forgetting Dorset mascarpone gnocchi with roasted beetroot and salsa verde or roasted halibut matched with curried cauliflower and lime beurre blanc. If pricing is more restaurant than pub, it’s worth noting that the three-course 'plats du jour' deal is terrific value, while diehards can get their fill of modern pub classics such as a cracking ploughman's or crispy buttermilk chicken burger. There's some serious cooking going on in the dessert department too: how about chocolate crémeux with Madeira and sour cherry compôte? The thoughtfully compiled wine list flags up vegan, organic, biodynamic and sustainable options, with plenty to catch the eye below £30.
